The following are the 5 major types of alpha-hydroxy acids found in skincare products and their sources:
- glycolic acid – sugar cane
- lactic acid – milk
- malic acid – apples and pears
- citric acid – oranges and lemons
- tartaric acid – grapes
Blog Archives
RX Summer Skin Secrets: Richie L. Lin MD
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We all need to adapt our skin care routines during the hot, humid summers. Board certified dermatologist, Dr. Richie Lin is here to help. Here are a some of his top tips to maintain and protect summer skin:
1. We all sweat more during a sticky July day. To keep your face looking fresh, your summer cleanser and moisturizer should be a touch more drying to control oil production. Look for cleansers that contain drying and acne fighting ingredients such as salicylic acid, and moisturizers that are lightweight. For acne prone individuals, oil control for the rest of your skin is also important so be sure to use a body cleanser with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.
2. No sunscreen is truly “waterproof” or “sweatproof,” since all sunblocks will dissolve in water eventually. In fact, these labels will soon be a thing of the past since the FDA has ruled that only the term “water resistant,” with a time limit, can be used on a label. If you are swimming, exercising, or even just sweating from a day of walking around, you should reapply your sunscreen every 1-2 hours for continued protection.
3. Sunscreens with an SPF below 15 do not protect against skin cancer or premature aging. The FDA will now require these products to state that they only protect against sunburns, but not against the carcinogenic effects of the sun. Make sure you pick a sunscreen with enough SPF.
4. Swim shirts and brimmed hats with UV protection are very popular right now. You see every toddler and young child at the pool or beach wearing them. If adults are mindful enough to protect their children from large doses of sun exposure, shouldn’t the same rules apply to big people? Protecting yourself with a swim coverup that contains SPF and a wide brimmed hat means you will be stylish and safe at the beach!
5. During the summertime, sun spots can darken with sun exposure. Being vigilant about sun protection and using a prescription strength lightening cream containing hydroquinone at night can help keep those sunspots light and your skin tone even.
About Richie L. Lin MD
Richie L. Lin, MD of Dermatology Consultants of Short Hills, is a board certified dermatologist with strong roots in northern New Jersey. Raised in Millburn, and a graduate of Millburn Senior High School, Dr. Lin went on to graduate magna cum laude from Vanderbilt University with a BA in music literature. He then returned to New Jersey and earned his doctorate of medicine from UMDNJ – New Jersey Medical School, during which time he was elected to the prestigious Alpha Omega Alpha medical honor society. Dr. Lin trained in internal medicine in San Francisco before completing his dermatology residency at Montefiore Medical Center in New York City. During residency, Dr. Lin was chosen to serve as the Chief Resident in the Division of Dermatology. After residency, he joined the faculty at the New York University School of Medicine.Dr. Lin has now returned to Short Hills, New Jersey to practice, while teaching at Columbia University.Dr. Lin has published extensively in peer-reviewed dermatology journals. He is a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery. He specializes in skin cancer detection and removal, including Mohs surgery, but also practices general dermatology. Dr. Lin also performs non-invasive skin rejuvenation procedures, including Botox, Juvederm, Restylane, Radiesse, laser hair removal, in addition to a wide array of skin laser treatments.
Lash Topcoat: Anastasia Beverly Hills Lash Genius
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Waterproof when you want it to be. Anastasia Beverly Hills Lash Genius instantly waterproofs, refreshes, and protects any mascara all day, without the typical drying or clumping. It’s advanced, lightweight formula glides on smooth, dries quickly, and gives your lashes a glossy lacquer finish that lasts all day. Feel un-phased in the face of a downpour or smug at your best friend’s wedding, Lash Genius will protect you.
Lash Genius comes in a typical mascara-type tube with short, stiff bristles. The formula is a slightly milky-colored gel that feels a bit tacky to the touch. It applies beautifully with a slightly wet texture that instantly adds shine and gloss to the lashes. Lash Genius is fragrance, paraben, and cruelty free.
Never decide on which formula to purchase of your favorite mascara again. I never seem to buy waterproof mascara. The formula, on me, feels thicker and heavier and it is a pain to remove. Don’t get me wrong, Lash Genius is a pain to remove, however, it does the job of a waterproof formula (better) and lash lacquer – all-in-one. So… it’s worth it.
Scientific Serum: Oscar Blandi Hair Lift
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The quest for thick, voluminous hair is one of women’s ‘mane’ concerns. Look no further than Oscar Blandi Hair Lift. This weightless styling aid has a whipped, gel-like consistency that binds to the hair, providing fullness and body.
It can be overwhelming, thanks in part to the many root-lifters, thickening shampoos, circulation-boosting exfoliators, and scalp elixirs on the market, each promising to create thicker, fuller hair.
Hair Lift is clinically proven to:
• Thicken hair up to 47%
• Strengthen hair instantly
• Improve elasticity & body
In a series of rigorous clinical trials, hair measured thicker, fuller and stronger by up to 47%. The key to such unprecedented results is a breakthrough moisturizing system that infuses sodium hyaluronate derivatives into each strand. Hair is scientifically proven to look, feel and stay full.
Other key ingredients:
• Rice Starch Powder absorbs excess oils in the hair to naturally plump the hair shaft.
• Brown & red algae marine complex coats hair in a sheer film which revitalizes limp, lifeless hair.
• Heat activated copolymers protect hair from the drying and damaging effects of heat styling.
My Experience: Oscar Blandi Hair Lift absolutely creates fuller, thicker hair. The heat-activated serum plumped every strand of hair providing more volume and fullness. However, in my experience, hair was left quite frizzy. Easy fix: The next application I applied a bit of hair oil after applying Hair Lift and frizz was gone. I – 100% – see and feel a difference in my hair. For example: when wearing hair in a ponytail – after Hair Lift – the elastic used to tie the ponytail is wrapped around 2-times less. For me and my hair type this is a big breakthrough.
Try for yourself and experiment with amount needed and what makes this product work for you. There is a personal science to each and every individual hair type – no matter how scientifically-proven the product might be.
Skin Rehab: Exuviance Daily Antioxidant Peel CA (10)
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Get glowing, healthy-looking skin instantly with one swipe of Exuviance Daily Antioxidant Peel CA (10). This one-step, daily peel gently exfoliates the skin delivering a powerful dose of protective antioxidants to help prevent visible signs of aging.
The Daily Antioxidant Peel CA (10) is formulated with 10% Citric Acid (antioxidant found in citrus fruits) to exfoliate dead skin cells, neutralize free radicals, and help prep skin for moisturizer and serum absorption. With no rinsing or recovery time required, the result is impossibly smooth skin with improved texture and tone.
Exuviance Daily Antioxidant Peel CA (10) is an amazing rehab for the skin. Gentle enough for everyday use, this peel provides the instant gratification of glowing skin after every use.
The product comes with a jar containing 36 pads (+1 test pad), and a bottle of solution. When ready to start the regime, pour the solution over the pads and let it soak in. Then begin to use one pad over the face (can also be used on hands, neck and chest) each morning, or as tolerated. Skincare and makeup can be applied immediately after. There is no rinsing, waiting period, stinging, drying or flaking.
In a clinical study, 100% of participants reported healthier looking skin, smoother texture and a more even tone after just one use.
“The skin is constantly shedding and renewing itself. Failure of old cells to slough off leads to a dull, more aged appearance to the skin. This peel is an innovative way to incorporate gentle exfoliation and antioxidant protection into your daily routine with one easy swipe. It’s formulated by the dermatologists who created the original glycolic peel, and utilizes 10% Citric Acid to scavenge damaging free radicals brought on by environmental exposure and help prevent future signs of aging. I recommend using it between office visits to help refine skin texture, smooth fine lines, even skin discoloration, and help diminish the appearance of acne scars and environmental damage.” -Dr. Julie K. Karen, a board certified dermatologist who currently practices at the Laser and Skin Surgery Center of NY.
What are AHAs – Alpha-Hydroxyacids?
AHAs are a group of naturally ocurring acids, many of which are found in fruits (hence “fruit-acids”). AHAs are used to help improve a variety of skin disorders including xerosis (dry skin), acne, ichthyosis, seborrheic keratoses and psoriasis. They also improve pigmentary disorders and symptoms of photo-aging; such as fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, skin laxity and dullness.
AHAs penetrate the dead surface cells of the skin, loosening the molecular bonds that attach them to the underlying tissues. The loose cells slough off, exposing newer skin.
About Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a substance that is found naturally in citrus fruits. It is a powerful antioxidant that can improve the health of skin cells. It stimulates collagen production, fights and protects from free radicals, has skin lightening properties, reduces fine lines and wrinkles and improves the appearance of scars.
Lip Lacquer: YSL Rouge Pur Couture Vernis À Lèvres (Glossy Stain)
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Yves Saint Laurent’s Rouge Pur Couture Vernis À Lèvres (Glossy Stain) is a unique hybrid of a lip stain and gloss without the dryness of a stain and the stickiness of a gloss.
The Glossy Stain is available in 19 beautiful shades. The pigmentation is rich and true to color. One layer provides a perfect wash of color and two, reaches full opacity. It stains the lips for a long-lasting finish that will not transfer.
The doe-foot applicator makes for easy and precise application. The soft-slanted tip is controllable and accurate. The texture is a gel-like formula that feels comfortable, cooling and hydrating on the lips. The thick consistency plumps the lips and exudes incredible shine with absolutely no glitter or sparkly bits.
This is one of the most inventive lip products I have tried. It is like nail polish for the lips, lacquered and glossy. This is the type of product that you must branch-out and try an extraordinary shade. Skip the neutrals and go directly towards the bold and vibrant shades. My current favorite is #12 Corail Fauve – a pinky-coral shade that looks like sweet watermelon on the lips. However, I have my eye on the perfect red for fall – #20 Rouge Enamel (Sephora Exclusive) as well as a bold orange – #8 Orange de Chine, my out-of-comfort-zone shade.
Holy Grail: Vitality Lip Flush 4-in-1 Anti-Aging Lipstick Stain
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An all-in-one phenomenon. Combine your favorite lip balm, lipstick, lip gloss and lip stain and you will have IT Cosmetics Vitality Lip Flush 4-in-1 Anti-Aging Lipstick Stain.
IT Cosmetics by Jackie Kern stands for Innovative Technology Cosmetics. It is created with the help of leading plastic surgeons to infuse medical grade makeup with healing skin loving ingredients with cutting edge technology.
Unlike anything I have tried before, this lip product creates the most perfect stained lip. The uber moisturizing formula glides on the lips seamlessly and resembles the feeling of a glossy lip balm. After application, lips are stained with a gorgeous “your lips but better” flush. This product comes in 3 different stains: Je Ne Sais Quoi (crystal pink), Love Story (mid-range pink) and Pretty Woman (berry).
This truly innovative lip product contains IT Cosmetics Hydra-Luxe™ Technology which features plum oil, cherry oil, shea butter, aloe, and jojoba that all work together to treat, hydrate, condition, and nourish your lips. It is also packed with anti-oxidants including acai, green tea, white tea, and vitamins A, C, and E to fight free-radicals and minimize the appearance of lip lines and wrinkles.
IT Cosmetics Vitality Lip Flush 4-in-1 Anti-Aging Lipstick Stain is added to the Holy Grail list for two reasons: texture and color. It is the lip product I have always been looking but did not know existed. Until now.
Conceal It: Bare Escentuals bareMinerals Multi-Tasking Concealer
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bareMinerals Multi-Tasking Concealer
Bare Escentuals bareMinerals Multi-Tasking Concealer is a mineral-based miracle powder that can be used in many different ways.
As a concealer: This powder can be used to neutralize redness or applied directly to blemishes, brown spots, broken capillaries and other skin imperfections.
As foundation: The multi-tasking powder is finely milled to provide deeper coverage. It can be added to the foundation powder if heavier coverage is needed or to lighten or darken the exsisting color.
As an eyeshadow base: Use this powder as an eyeshadow or eyeshadow base to alliviate any oils, veining or discoloration on the eyelid.
As an under-eye concealer: This powder will mask dark circles and brighten the entire eye-area.
The multi-tasking powder is available in five shades. Free of preservatives, talc, waxes, dyes, oils and fragrances – it will not irritate skin.
In my opinion, this is one of the best concealers on the planet. It erases every imperfection flawlessly and in just one step – no setting needed. I do not use this product as an under-eye concealer, as it is a bit too drying for my skin, but it does work as a fantastic eyeshadow primer and color.
TIP: Spray concealer brush with setting spray or a little water to deepen the coverage and create a paste-like formula that applies flawlessly on dry skin.
Matte Finish: Nars Pure Matte Lipsticks
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Nars Pure Matte Lipstick ~ Carthage
In lip products, matte textures tend to look more natural than shine and shimmer. This is especially true in photography and video. They also last longer on the lips and seldom feather.
Matte-textured lipsticks as well as long-wear can be incredibly drying on the lips. Nars Pure Matte Lipsticks contain mango butter that provide moisturizing properties to repair dryness and scaling. However, I would not constitute this as a moisturizing lip product, but increasingly better than others I have tested.
Nars Pure Matte Lipsticks are incredibly pigmented and provide amazing color pay-off. They are available in eleven shades from nude to full-bodied reds. Carthage is my current favorite, the most obnoxious hot pink.
Matte lipsticks are a great buy, the pigments are bright and bold and if a little shimmer or shine is needed, just add some gloss.
Tip: Avoid over-applying lipstick, the more you wear, the heavier it looks and the quicker it will wear off.
The Breakup: Kinerase Hydraboost Intensive Treatment
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Kinerase Hydraboost Intensive Treatment
I wanted so much to love Kinerase Hydraboost Intensive Treatment, as I am a fan of the product line. However, it just did not work out between us.
Hydraboost promises to bind moisture to the skin, using the brands exclusive “moisture magnet.” This magnet claims to attract water to thirsty skin cells and keep it locked-in long after ordinary moisturizers have stopped working.
In my experience, my skin feels almost more dry after applying this serum. The gel-like consistency seems to hover on top of the skin’s surface and not completely sink-in. I did not see any change or hydration to my skin’s appearance.
Kinerase Hydraboost Intensive Treatment did not work on my skin, but that does not mean it might not work for you.
It’s not you…It’s me. Hopefully, we can still be friends.
Glow-T 