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Know Your Zones: Dermalogica Face Mapping
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Take the guesswork out of your skincare regime with Dermalogica’s Face Mapping®. This process takes no more than five to ten minutes and provides insight into your skin’s past and present, allowing the subsequent prescription of a targeted home care regime. Face Mapping® is available at authorized skin treatment centers, salons, and spas worldwide. To find one nearest you – HERE.
Developed by The International Dermal Institute, Dermalogica’s Face Mapping® is a zone-by-zone skin analysis tool which provides insight into individual skin types and skin concerns. With your very own personalized analysis and prescription, you will discover how to treat your skin with the right products and professional skin treatments.
Rather than analyzing the skin in general terms, a Dermalogica Professional Skin Therapist uses Face Mapping® to divide the facial landscape into fourteen zones. Each zone is thoroughly examined inch-by-inch through touch and site, and findings are notated on a prescription sheet.
This prescription sheet serves as a customized visual guide for you, outlining on an actual facial landscape illustration where conditions including congestion, breakouts, dehydration, and/or hyper-pigmentation are present. Face Mapping® maintains an accurate record of your skin, which provides you and your Dermalogica Professional Skin Therapist an objective view into the results of any professional product recommendation.
If you don’t have time to see a Professional, Dermalogica offers Speed Mapping online. In just two quick steps, the process will identify your top concerns, then provide a personalized product prescription. Get started: HERE.
This analysis is a wonderful tool for those questioning their skin type or experiencing changes to their skin. Skin changes seasonally and Face Mapping® can be a useful and detrimental tool to solving your skincare concerns. Of course, Dermalogica will prescribe their brand of products in this analysis, but the information received applies to all brands of skincare.
Dermalogica’s Face Mapping® will put you on the road towards your healthiest skin ever!
How To: Fresh Face
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A fresh face is always in style. Let your inner beauty shine by enhancing your already-beautiful features – not covering them up. Channel that glow-y radiance and opt for an au naturale, fresh face.
NEEDED:
◊ Your Makeup Bag
HOW TO:
PERFECT THE SKIN:
Wash face with your favorite gentle exfoliator. This will help the makeup to blend easily. Favorite: Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant.
MOISTURIZE & EVEN OUT SKIN TONE:
Keep skin hydrated with a sheer moisturizer. Try one with light reflecting properties – for a healthy radiance. Favorite: Dr. Jart+ Renewalist Melting Cream
To even out skin tone, grab your favorite – Tinted Moisturizer, Foundation, BB Cream or Mineral Powder – and apply. Choosing the product that provides your favorite finish on the skin – matte, dewy, satin or natural – your choice. Favorite: Jouer Luminizing Moisture Tint
Use a damp sponge to create a flawless finish. Favorite: Beauty Blender
CONCEAL FLAWS & HIGHLIGHT:
For visible breakouts and dark spots use a pigment-rich concealer. Dab, blend and build coverage in thin layers. Never use too much concealer, it will just accentuate problem areas. Favorite: Miracle Skin Transformer Treat & Conceal
Concealing under-circles will instantly light-up the entire face. If you have very dark undereye circles, first apply a salmon-toned color corrector. Favorite: Giorgio Armani Master Corrector
With a luminizing pen dot product under the eye and blend downwards. A luminizing pen brings light and radiance to the skin. It immediately erases any signs of fatigue, and brightens the complexion. This product can then be used as a highlighter on the cheekbones, brow bones and cupids bow. Favorite: YSL Touche Éclat
BRONZE & BLUSH:
Warm-up the skin with a light dusting of your favorite bronzer. Place only where the sun would naturally hit the skin. Temples, cheekbones, a little on the nose and under the jawline for contour. Favorite: Edward Bess Ultra Luminous Bronzer
Choose your favorite cream blush. Cream blushes in warm peaches and pinks gives skin a natural, subtle flush. Place on the apples of the cheeks and blend. Favorite: Illamasqua Cream Blusher in Petal Pink
POWDER:
If your skin gets shiny, follow with an oil-absorbing powder. Use only in the T-Zone area. This step can be skipped for those with dry or normal skin. Favorite: Laura Mercier Universal Setting Powder
If you find that you’ve over-powdered, take a tiny bit of light moisturizer, rub it between your palms, and then lightly press your palms onto your cheeks. This will bring back a bit of life to the skin.
BROWS:
Defined arches frame the face, pulling your features into focus. Make sure the brows are groomed and tweezed. Brush and fill them in sparingly with a brow pencil. Favorite: Anastasia Brow Wiz
EYES:
Apply a cream eyeshadow one shade lighter than lid color to the eyelid. Set with a matching eyeshadow and apply this eyeshadow to the inner corner of the eyes. This color can be matte or shimmer – your choice. Favorites: MAC Soft Ochre Paint Pot & MAC Eyeshadow in Vanilla
Then apply a soft warm brown eyeshadow to the crease area to contour the eye. Using the same soft brown eyeshadow, apply along the lower lashes – blending to ensure no hard edges. This can also be done with your bronzer. Favorite: Urban Decay Single Eyeshadow in Naked
TIGHTLINE:
For extra definition, tightline the eyes with your favorite eyeliner, gel liner, or liquid liner. How-To Tightline Post: HERE.
To make eyes look brighter and wide-awake, apply a nude colored eyeliner to the bottom inner rim. Favorite: Tarte emphasEYES Inner Rim Brightener
LASHES:
Defined lashes are essential, even for a no-makeup look, you can forfeit shadow and liner, but never mascara. Curl eye lashes and apply two coats of mascara to the top lashes. For an extra boost, use a flat eyeliner brush to grab a bit of mascara from the wand and apply to just the roots of the bottom lashes. Favorite: Fairy Drops Scandal Queen
LIPS:
To get a pretty “your lips but better” look – choose a lipstick, stain, balm or liner that matches your lips perfectly. Press the color into your lips with your fingertip rather than applying it directly from the bullet. Concentrate it in the center and blend out. Favorite: Fresh Sugar Passion Tinted Lip Treatment
Dynamic Duo: Vapour Organic Beauty
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Vapour Organic Beauty consists of high-performing natural products, made with 70 percent organic ingredients. The line is formulated without water or other fillers, which means they are super concentrated and enjoy a longer shelf life. Vapour only uses biodegradable ingredients and recyclable packaging in order to minimize their environmental footprint.
Two exceptional products from Vapour Organic Beauty are: Stratus Soft Focus Instant Skin Perfector and Atmosphere Soft Focus Foundation.
Vapour touts Stratus Soft Focus Instant Skin Perfector as the original organic BB Cream; a 3-in-1 moisturizer, primer and no-color foundation. Stratus Soft Focus Instant Skin Perfector is applied like a primer and leaves a smooth base for makeup application while achieving a natural soft satin finish. From the first application you will see a difference as it works instantly to blur imperfections, hydrate the skin and add radiance without a trace of residue. Vapour’s Light Reflective Technology immediately perfects the appearance of your skin – revealing a younger and fresh complexion.
*** In an independent study 8 out of 10 people who tried Stratus saw an immediate improvement in their skin tone and texture. Seven out of 10 people saw an immediate decrease in the appearance of lines, wrinkles and pores.***
Effortlessly achieve the look of radiant, healthy skin with Atmosphere Soft Focus Foundation. This buildable, medium-to-full coverage foundation delivers a flawless and luminous finish. The lightweight formula evens the complexion and instantly perfects the skin. Vapour’s Light Reflective Technology is used to blur the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pores. Atmosphere Soft Focus Foundation feels extremly moisturizing and nourishing on the skin. Easy to apply, it blends beautifully into the skin and provides the perfect naturally healthy finish. Great for use in the colder months when skin looks dull and lackluster – this foundation will brings the skin back to life.
Both Stratus Soft Focus Instant Skin Perfector and Atmosphere Soft Focus Foundation are made with 70% Certified Organic ingredients and 30% natural mineral pigments & vitamins. Nourishes with Organic Pumpkin and Papaya complex and brightens skin with Organic Camellia. Infused with Vapour’s face specific infusion of anti-inflammatory Frankincense, antioxidant Tulsi and moisturizing and calming Lotus flowers. All the performance of a luxury moisturizer and foundation with none of the chemicals.
Vapour Organic Beauty raises the bar for revolutionary performance and purity with their Soft Focus line. Designed to balance all skin types, including combination and oily skin, the Soft Focus line will work for everyone. Both of these products can be worn separately, however, when used together they create the dynamic duo.
Tried & Tested: Dr. Jart+ Renewalist Melting Cream
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I am always on the look-out for new and innovative products. I have a strong obsession (borderline neurosis) with international skincare. From French pharmacies to Asian markets, there is always a treasure to be found.
Dedicated to his lifelong goal of satisfying patients, Dr. Jart combined his medical background with a team of 21 skilled dermatologists to develop his eponymous skincare brand. Based in Korean, the line that consists of targeted cosmeceuticals that not only make the skin look good but also deliver long-term benefits. Free of controversial sulfates, petrochemicals, artificial dyes and fragrances, the Dr. Jart+ brand is continuously reinventing skincare.
I recently tried and tested Dr. Jart+ Renewalist Melting Cream. As the name suggests, this innovative moisturizer melts deep into the skin, renewing it’s natural luster. Formulated with moringa oil, argan oil and jojoba oil, this moisturizer delivers soothing hydration. It contains antioxidants to improve elasticity and platol white-c complex to brighten the skin. A clever addition to this product is the use of sebum-controlling powder. This will help control excess oils in the skin without clogging pores and qualifies this product to work as both a moisturizer and a primer.
The unique texture of this product is what makes it one-of-a-kind. It presents itself as a solid, balm-like consistency. A tiny spatula is provided to scoop-out the needed amount and as the product comes in contact with body heat – it melts seamlessly into the skin. The product absorbs quickly, penetrating deep into the skin’s layers with no greasiness or heavy residuals. It leaves the skin fresh, silky and radiant.
The Dr. Jart+ brand is available in the US at your local Sephora.
Dream Cream: Jouer Cream Eyeshadow
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Jouer Cream Eyeshadow is the do-it-all eye product for quick, low maintenance makeup. Line, shade and/or contour your eyes with these easy-to-blend beauties.
These cream eyeshadows are like nothing I have tried before. Extremely lightweight in texture, the formula glides effortlessly onto the lids. They feel like velvet on the skin and the smudge-proof formula lasts all day. The consistency is both layerable and buildable providing options for a sheer or dramatic application.
Available in five gorgeous shades:
♦ Chiffon – shimmering ivory pearl
♦ Feather – shimmering pink champagne
♦ Organza – shimmering lavender taupe
♦ Cashmere – shimmering golden taupe
♦ Suede – shimmering golden bronze
When deciding on whether to use a cream or powder eye shadow, take into consideration factors such as your age and skin type. Powder eye shadows that contain shimmers may settle in wrinkles, fine lines and/or sagging eye lids. Cream shadow is a better option for women of age as they will create a smooth base. If you have very oily skin, using a cream eyeshadow can be frustrating. When combined with your skin’s natural oils, the eyeshadow may quickly smear or seep into the crease. This is an easy fix – as cream eyeshadows can also be used as primers. First apply your favorite cream eyeshadow then set with a powder or powder eyeshadow to absorb excess oil. Not only with the color last and last – but mixing these textures reveals beautiful dimension and light-reflecting properties.
All Jouer products offer a smart packaging solution. Constructed with interlocking sides, every product from lip gloss to face powder “snap-together,” making it easy to mix and match your favorites into the perfect palette.
I am currently having a small love affair with Jouer Cosmetics. Quality formulas, wearable colors and intelligent packaging – what more could you ask for. More reviews to come.
Tried & Tested: Bobbi Brown BB Cream SPF 35
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The newest BB Cream to hit our counters is Bobbi Brown BB Cream SPF 35. Exclusive to Nordstroms, the formula combines moisturizer, skincare, foundation and SPF into one.
Features & Benefits: Water-attracting molecules boost hydration. Light-reflecting pearls brighten dull skin. Botanical extracts and caffeine reduce discoloration and redness. Pore-reducing peptides minimize fine lines. Broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection and antioxidants fend off future damage.
Bobbi Brown’s BB Cream SPF 35 is available in five shades: Extra Light, Fair, Light, Medium and Medium to Dark. I was certainly intrigued by this, due to the fact that Bobbi Brown Cosmetics are primarily yellow-based shades. Many BB Cream (especially asian brands) are based on cooler-tones, such as pinks and greys.
As I sampled the different shades, I was persuaded by a sweet Bobbi Brown representative to try the darkest shade, Medium to Dark. This shade looks quite dark, almost bronzer-like. But, I took her advice and purchased.
APPLICATION: Smooth and easy to apply. Goes on quite dry, but feels nice and extremely light on the skin. (Unless you have very oily skin, a moisturizer is needed in addition to this BB Cream.)
COVERAGE: Sheer.
FINISH: Skin appears matte with a subtle sheen. Very healthy-looking. However, like most BB Creams, after a couple hours the oils will come-out and skin will look too glowing. A finishing powder is recommended.
COLOR: Initial application, the color appeared too dark. Let dry and after a couple minutes, the color adapts to the skin and the color is perfect. It might be a smidgen too dark – but I am loving the subtle-tan look for summer.
VERDICT: Like many of the US BB Creams, this is much like a tinted moisturizer. But, I love the finish it leaves on the skin and the feeling is remarkably lightweight. For a high-SPF product, this cream wears like you have nothing on. The shade choices are great and warm-up the complexion beautifully. Leaves skin looking fresh and healthy. A great option for the summer months – SPF, lightweight, easy.
(When testing these BB Creams, before deciding on a shade, I suggest waiting at least 5 minutes for the color to oxidize and adapt to your skin tone.)
For other BB Cream reviews:
Summer Favorites: Blush
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In the summer, bright and vibrant shades of cheek color is a surefire way to look younger and healthy. Use these products to emphasize a tan, create a youthful flush or mimic a lit-from-within complexion.
Start by choosing the right shade for your skintone. To find your go-to blush shade, pinch your cheeks and then pick a color that mimics your natural flush. This trick will ensure that you’re choosing the most flattering color for your skin tone. If you have fair skin, try a cool pink. Medium skin looks great in vibrant apricot/peachy hues, and darker skin tones look radiant in fuchsia.
Cream blush is a great way to instantly look fresh and dewy. Although it’s staying powder is not the best, especially in higher temperatures, cream blush is a nice alternative for dry skin. To ensure staying power on oily skin, first prime the skin and then set with a powder blush or translucent powder. To apply cream blush, smile and lightly focus the blush onto the apples of your cheeks. Then blend softly back and up toward the hairline. If you apply too liberally, tone down heavy application by blotting the excess color with a clean makeup sponge. Or, use a sheer, luminizing powder to diffuse excess color. The blush then looks like it came from within the skin versus sitting on top of it.
FAVORITES:
Dior Rosy Glow Healthy Glow Awakening Blush: I am a sucker for these gimmicky products. However, this one is fantastic. The formula magically adjusts to your skin’s natural chemistry to create a universal shade. It produces an angelic pink glow that makes you look “lit-from-within.”
It Cosmetics Vitality Cheek Flush Powder Blush Stain in Peony: The most long-wearing powder blush I have tried. The waterproof formula mimics the lasting power and glow of a cheek stain with the easy application of a powder. Packed with anti-oxidants and anti aging properties, this blush gives new definition to a “healthy glow.”
Youngblood Crushed Mineral Blush in Rouge: These blushes are incredibly pigmented and easy to work with. They blend beautifully and last all-day. They feel lightweight on the skin and never settle into lines. A small amount goes a very long way, apply with a light hand for a sheer wash of color or add more for vibrant glowing skin.
Kevyn Aucoin The Pure Powder Glow in Myracle: Full Review HERE.
NARS Cream Blush in Cactus Flower: On trend for summer, this bright coral blush is beautiful on both the lips and cheeks. The velvety texture is extremely easy to blend and apply. Subtle gold shimmers hide in the coral to help create perfectly flushed, luminous skin.
BECCA Beach Tint in Guava: This is the perfect color for summertime. It resembles the act of playing in the sun a little too long. The water-resistant formula can be used on both the cheeks and lips. Produces the most natural-looking flush and smells like summer.
Urban Decay Afterglow Glide-On Cheek Tint in Quickie: A lightweight cream blush that does not pull or disrupt a base. It can be used on top of foundation, powder… anything. The formula is sheer but buildable. The staying power is not the best, but I am obsessed with this color. Quickie is a sheer bubble gum, electric, cotton candy pink. The minute it is applied, it creates instant youthfulness.
Floral Water: Chantecaille Rosewater
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Chantecaille Rosewater
Rosewater is a by-product made when producing rose oil. It is rich in vitamin C and vitamin A and has antioxidants that help transform dull, tired skin to radiant, glowing skin.
Rose is a natural astringent with anti-inflammatory properties. It is excellent for maintaining hydrated skin and combats pre-mature aging. Rose water helps to balance the pH of the skin, controlling both dry and oily skin and can also soothe many types of dermatitis.
Chantecaille Rosewater contains 100% of the Rose de Mai, an antique rose named after the month of May, when it blooms. It is harvested by hand and distilled in the purest artesian well water to produce this healing, moisturizing and uplifting spray.
Continuing my love of French skincare, it is said that Rosewater has been used in the beauty ritual of French women for centuries. It can also be used in many different ways: to enhance skincare, as a make-up setting spray, body fragrance, linen spray, hair-freshener…
Chantecaille Rosewater is a wonderful treat for both the skin and the senses.
Seasonal Skincare: Clarisonic Deep Pore Cleansing Brush Head
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Deep Pore Cleansing Brush Head
As the seasons change, so should your skincare. Effective seasonal skincare means swapping our favorite summer formulas and replacing them with products that are better suited for the cool, dry weather that lies ahead.
When skin is dry and sensitive in the cooler months, many women believe it is better to skip exfoliation. However, this the ideal time to slough off those dead skin cells that create a dull complexion. Plus, exfoliating enhances the effects of hydrating lotions, creams and serums used.
As an advocate of the Clarisonic Cleansing Sysyem, review here, the Deep Pore Cleansing Brush Head is my favorite. As gentle as the original, graduated bristle firmness and dual-action movement are used to clean out stubborn pores and hard-to-reach areas, like around the nose.
This brush head is ideal for those with oily skin or large pores, but is perfect for deep cleansing and exfoliation.
Tried & Tested: Too Faced Primed & Poreless
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Too Faced Primed & Poreless
Too Faced Primed & Poreless is a makeup primer formulated to erase pores and imperfections, soften fine lines and help create a flawless face.
This primer aroused my curiosity with one ingredient, a powerful dose of retinol. Always a fan of multi-tasking, finally a primer formulated to prime the skin while restoring moisture, elasticity with anti-wrinkle fighting ingredients.
The primer slides onto the skin seamlessly, easy to blend and sets quickly. The nude tone becomes invisible once applied, so can be used on any skintone. Pores were airbrushed away and my combination skin felt less oily. Makeup lasted all day, no touch-ups needed.
The retinol in the product is quickly noticeable with a slight “itchy” feeling. Nothing to be discouraged about, but very sensitive skin might be fore-warned.
Too Faced Primed & Poreless is a great primer for oily and combination skintypes. Just remember to apply your sunscreen as retinol can make skin sensitive to the sun.
Simple Sponge: Konjac Sponge
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Konjac Sponge
Konjac is a natural food source that has been used in Japanese cuisine for over 1500 years. Ninety seven percent of Konjac is water and three percent is a dietary fiber. Rich in vitamins and minerals, the Japanese have been using Konjac sponges as beauty treatments for centuries.
The unique net like structure of the Konjac sponge, gently massages and stimulates blood flow and new growth of skin cells. A naturally moisture-rich plant fibre in the sponge balances the acidity of the skin and leaves it extremely clean and refreshed with no need for additional cleansers or soap.
Available in diferent ranges, according to skin type, the Konjac sponge can be infused with clays and charcoal for added benefits. Pink clay has been used for tired, devitalized skin, green clay for normal to oily skin and red clay for dry and sensitive skin. Also, available in bamboo charcoal for very oily or acne-prone skin.
To use, gently massage sponge over the face and body in a circular motion. A cleansing solution can be added, but is not necessary. If added, the smallest amount is needed as the sponge will create an immense lather. Splash with warm water to reveal squeaky clean and refreshed skin.
Each sponge lasts for around one to three months and can be found at any health-food stores. Can be used on the most delicate, sensitive skin and is even recommended for newborn babies. The Konjac sponge is simple yet effective and works on every skintype.
Let Loose! BECCA Fine Loose Finishing Powder
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Becca Fine Loose Finishing Powder
BECCA Fine Loose Finishing Powder is widely regarded as the finest powder in the world. It not only sets makeup but, helps creates flawless, radiant, glowing skin.
The exclusive formula is lightly pigmented and micro-milled for an ultra-sheer, natural-looking finish. It sets makeup all day and keeps skin looking impeccably fresh. The lightweight texture allows the skin’s natural oils to subtly shine-through ensuring a no-makeup-makeup-look.
Apply this loose powder with a big fluffy brush or for those with oily to combination skin, use a powder-puff. The powder will not settle into fine lines or look cakey. It feels weightless and silky on the skin and provides sheer coverage.
BECCA Fine Loose Finishing Powder is very unique because it creates a natural dewy finish to the skin, which is quite unusual when using powder-based products.
Glow-T 